The very name Villefranche means “free city” in French - Charles II of Anjou, who founded it at the end of the 13th century on the site of an ancient Roman port, created a duty-free territory here, a kind of duty free zone of his time. In 1388, the city passed to the Savoy dynasty and began to be called in the Italian manner Villafranca. In the middle of the 16th century, Duke Emmanuel Philibert, realizing the strategic importance of the bay in which Villefranche is located, decided to use it to create a military harbor. Then everyone still had fresh memories of the not too pleasant visit of the flotilla of the Turkish Sultan in 1543.

On the hill between Nice and Villefranche, by order of the duke, the Fort du Mont Alban was created, and at the entrance to the bay a picturesque fortress or Saint Elmo's quote (La Citadelle Saint-Elme) was built, which now houses the municipality, the museum , a cinema and an open-air concert hall. For the next two centuries, Villefranche-sur-Mer remained the main port of the entire Sardinian kingdom, until a major port was built in Nice at the end of the 18th century.

The life of the city turned out to be quite closely connected with Russia and Russians. For the first time, Russians in large numbers spectacularly appeared here in 1770, when a squadron under the command of Alexei Orlov dropped anchor in the bay of Villefranche. This event was recently immortalized by a rather clumsy monument - the busts of the two Orlov brothers and Admiral Ushakov. But the real expansion of Russians to the Cote d'Azur began in the second half of the 19th century, and it just so happened that Villefranche became the center of the Russian colony. The widow of Nicholas I in 1856 first settled in Nice, but after a very short time she moved with her ladies-in-waiting and court to Villefranche, where she spent about six months.

A convenient road from Nice to Villefranche was built largely at the expense of the Russian Empress Dowager Alexandra Feodorovna, and at the same time received her name. After World War II, the communist mayors tried to erase this fact from the memory of the townspeople and from the maps, renaming the Empress Boulevard to Stalingrad, but in our time, grateful residents of Villefranche named a small embankment in the very center of the city in honor of Alexandra Feodorovna and a few years ago erected a bust of Her Majesty directly at the citadel. As a result, the sculptural images of the empress and admirals placed opposite each other now form a kind of Russian memorial corner of Villefranche.

The widow of Nicholas I cared not only about her own pleasant rest and the comfort of local residents - our empresses, even after descending from the throne, continue to protect Russian geopolitical interests. So Alexandra Fedorovna combined what was pleasant for herself with what was useful for Russia. After the extremely unsuccessful outcome of the Crimean War, the empire, under the terms of the peace treaty, lost the right to pass its fleet from the Black Sea to the Mediterranean through the Bosporus and Dardanelles. "Something needs to be done!" - exclaimed Alexander II and sent his own mother to correct the mistakes of his father. Approximate empresses quickly bought up real estate around the waters of Villefranche-sur-Mer, and already in 1857 a bay lease agreement was signed with the Kingdom of Sardinia, under the terms of which the Russian military - navy. After the transfer of these lands to France in 1860, the legitimacy of the treaty was confirmed by the government of Emperor Napoleon III. The lease of the bay by the Russians continued until 1878, after which a zoological station financed from St. Petersburg was located in the premises of the former Russian naval base. Even after the collapse of the Russian Empire, Russian scientists remained the directors of this station, which came under the jurisdiction of the French government, for another half a century. Well, the strategic importance of the Villefranche raid is emphasized by the fact that after World War II it housed an American squadron until 1962, and now French warships are in abundance, picturesquely diluted with motley fishing boats.

Perhaps the most famous building of Villefranche-sur-Mer is the so-called "Villa of King Leopold". The Belgian monarch generally loved the Riviera and did a lot to improve it. In 1902, Leopold II acquired a piece of land in Villefranche, on which he decided to build a villa for his mistress, the young Frenchwoman Blanche Delacroix, who later bore him two illegitimate sons. The 74-year-old king entered into a morganatic marriage with her in 1909, five days before his death. The villa by that time had not been finally completed. In the 1930s, it was greatly expanded by the new owner, the American millionaire Ogden Codman, and is still the largest in the city. In 1955, Alfred Hitchcock filmed his ironic detective story To Catch a Thief here, starring Cary Grant and Grace Kelly. In the 1970s, the villa was purchased by Lebanese-born French billionaire Edmond Safra, who even made it a refuge in case of a nuclear war. The billionaire's villa was visited by US President Ronald Reagan, Frank Sinatra, Prince Charles and Prince Rainier III. It would be wrong to attribute the villa to the category of local attractions - naturally, this is a private property closed to tourists.

Friends, for the first time telling you about a new place, I don't know what to write. I can only show you a couple of photos, which, however, turned out to be much worse than the original:

Villefranche, the place where we settled and from where we made short but devastating raids along the Cote d'Azur, turned out to be a fantastically cozy town, forever stuck in a medieval, Mediterranean pastoral:

Bright houses-huts of cobbled narrow streets:

The eternal struggle for the dominant color between the fragrant lilac and the azure sky with the desperate intervention of sea aquamarine:

Lively old women hanging laundry in the windows, a peach vendor exhausted by the hot sun. Time is frozen here and you can safely cut it with a knife, as you cut tart Provencal cheese. Time is not valued here, because the residents know for sure that one hot summer will surely be replaced by another, just as motor ships change each other in the picturesque Villefranche bay:

In fact, cruise ships count the time here, permanently splashing their passengers onto the shores, who immediately fill fast trains passing through the local small train station to the brim with bazaar flocks and go to Monaco or Nice:

And it's good that they don't linger here. Villefranche is accustomed to peace. And we did not regret at all that we chose this world of peace for living, this picturesque temporary pocket, and not the cheerful whirlpool of Nice.

By the way, the local railway station boasts probably the most beautiful view:

The passenger will receive greater pleasure, perhaps, only after getting off the train at the Venice station.

As soon as the July heat subsides, the resident and tourist will leave their home and hotel and go down to the Quai Courbet. Here, seven hundred thousand billion restaurants brazenly exploit the sea surf, enticing rumbling empty stomachs and eyes insatiable with a romantic sunset:

Stomachs and wallets make up a system of communicating vessels here: stomachs fill up, wallets lose weight. In one of the restaurants I ordered a sea platter (on the left photo on the left):

And for two hours painfully crunched the vertebrae of fried roach for 40 euros a plate. And again, I remembered Venice here with its one shrimp for 30 euros. But do not be alarmed, I am such a loshara - here it is quite possible to have a normal meal for reasonable money and it will remain for chocolate crepes.

Of course, the medieval trough of Villefranche sometimes leaks and the g.l.a.m.u.r surrounding the city also flows here:

The city is scattered on the cliffs, the world's nabobs take advantage of this and build their luxurious villas in such a way that you can spit on the less fortunate neighbor from above:

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Villefranche is another of the resort towns of the Cote d'Azur. It is practically a suburb of Nice, located very close to it. The town is very compact and picturesque.
I'll touch on history in passing. Villefranche was founded in 1295 by Charles of Anjou, Count of Provence. The count gave the city the right to free trade and named it "Villain-Franc" ("free city").
The Bay of Villefranche is one of the deepest natural harbors (95 meters) in the entire Mediterranean, where large ships, such as cruise liners or superyachts over 150 meters long, can anchor.
Villefranche was especially interesting to me as a Russian. It was from here that the development of the Cote d'Azur by the Russians began. The first to anchor here were the ships of the Orlov brothers, who from Villefranche went to the Battle of Chesme. Then, in the middle of the 19th century, Empress Alexandra Feodorovna arrived in Villefranche on board the Sardinian king. At that time, her health was greatly shaken, she needed a mild maritime climate.
When the Russians lost the Crimean War and lost their base in the Black Sea, the Russian Navy needed a naval base. After successful negotiations with the king of Sardinia, Villefranche became such a base.
After the city falls to the French, the privileges for the Russian fleet are preserved for another twenty years. During these years, Russian sailors built a stone pier for unloading fuel, and some of the medieval buildings began to be used for household needs. Later, in the building of a former prison, Russian scientists opened a zoological station to study the flora and fauna of the Mediterranean Sea, which was funded from Russia. After the withdrawal of the military, some facilities were used by the Russian-controlled Oceanographic Laboratory (founded in 1885, still functioning under the jurisdiction of France). It is still one of the main scientific centers for studying the nature of the region.


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On asphalt. I didn’t understand anything, but the right one is very similar to Obama))


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Oh, sorry, something terrible happened to my settings here (


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The Church of Saint-Michel in the heart of the old town of Villefranche was built in the 1750s in the Italian Baroque style on the site of an older church from the 14th century.

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In the port of Villefranche stands the chapel of St. Peter, who is the patron saint of fishermen. For a long time it was abandoned, they began to store fishing tackle and equipment in it. In 1957, the famous Jean Coteau was vacationing in Villefranche. He wanted to make a gift to the city and painted the chapel inside and out. The frescoes inside reflect episodes from the life of St. Peter and the Mediterranean lifestyle.


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Unfortunately, I didn't have a chance to look inside. But here's what the pictures on the Internet show:

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Another opportunity to compare the painting with the original. True, I did not manage to find the angle from where the church would be visible.

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Have you ever been in a city where a staircase leads directly from the railway station to a magnificent sea beach? Welcome! Villefranche-sur-Mer is a small, cozy Mediterranean town in the southeast of France, stretching along the bay, which is located between Mount Boron and Cap Ferrat. This quiet sea corner is one of the most beautiful on the Cote d'Azur. You can walk around the entire bay at a leisurely pace in just an hour. Despite its small size, due to its depth - up to 95 meters - it is able to receive the largest ships, such as cruise ships.

Some people call Villefranche-sur-Me a suburb of Nice, because it is located five kilometers from it. In fact, this is a completely independent city, known as an exclusive resort. Its population is less than six thousand people, and the total area is about 5 km. 2 . Since everything for a comfortable and luxurious life exists here, Villefranche-sur-Mer can be uncompromisingly called the city of dreams!

city ​​of youth

"When I look at Villefranche, I see my youth!" Jean Cocteau said. What so captivated the famous writer, playwright and director in this small town? It must be its unique atmosphere, which charges with lightness, fun, inspires and seems to encourage you to start dancing. When you get here, your head is spinning with happiness, and it seems that life is just beginning! It is impossible not to feel young here, forgetting about all the hardships and enjoying the joyful serenity that emanates from every person, house, landscape you meet ...

This is an unusually picturesque "postcard" place. The houses of the fabulous town are arranged in tiers on the mountain along the bay. Since the housing is mostly made in the Italian style, the buildings look very cheerful, playing with the brightest colors and immersed in lush vegetation. Buildings shimmer with all the colors of the rainbow! The “floors” on the hill consist mainly of luxurious villas and mansions, the elegant look of which gives the city a unique charm. No wonder, this city, like a magnet, attracts the most successful people on the planet. It gives energy and positive just by its appearance, not to mention the inner fullness, which you can feel only after spending some time there.

Of course, many dreambuy property in Villefranche-sur-Me , however, not everyone can afford it, because the "paradise", along with Cap Ferrat bordering it, is one of the most expensive places in the world. Even a vacation here will cost more than in Nice and many other cities on the Cote d'Azur. At the same time, the demand forVillefranche-sur-Mehuge, so if you want to spend a vacation or vacation here, you mustto book a hotel orrent a villa in advance, since the number of rooms in the city is extremely small.

Active rest and walks

Villefranche-sur-Mere is a favorite place for young and active people. Here you can practice various water sports, and the necessary equipment will be provided by numerous companies located along the coast. In addition, mountaineering is popular in Villefranche-sur-Me, because next to the resort is Mont Boron, which is ideal for this purpose. Equestrian sports and just horseback riding are widely demanded. For lovers of diving, there are deep-sea diving centers, and one of the most popular tourist attractions is fishing. In addition, you canrent a yacht and go on an exciting sea voyage.

But most vacationers like to just sunbathe and swim here. The best is the long central beach, where residents of Nice and other cities of the Cote d'Azur and some Italians come here for the weekend. What attracts "neighbors" to Villefranche who have their own beaches "at your side"? The fact is that this is practically the only place between Nice and the Italian border with the smallest pebbles, where there is a convenient entrance to the water that does not require special swimming shoes, which is suitable even for small children.

In addition to swimming inVillefranche-sur-Mer is extremely popular for hiking, because thanks to its location, the city offers a whole panorama of beautiful places. But if you do not like to walk, then a small tourist train is at your service.LaRafale, where you can take a 25-minute trip around the bay, allowing you to enjoy its stunning views in its entirety.

One of the peculiarities of the city is that there are no big shops here. This is not surprising, because Villefranche-sur-Mer is small in itself, devoid of fuss and hustle. The needs of the residents are mainly satisfied by private food stalls scattered in different parts of the city. Provencal and flea markets are open on Saturdays in Jardins Binon Square until lunchtime. Prices in restaurants are higher than in Nice, which is due to the lack of much competition. After all, few tourists want to go to dinner in neighboring cities, so they have to choose from five or six expensive cafes located on the seashore.

However, for obvious reasons, no one expects cheapness in Villefranche-sur-Mer: this place has always been considered “bohemian”, famous artists, writers, artists, and performers have come here at all times. Many of them were not limited to rest andbought property right in this city. Today it is considered to be one of the most beautiful and expensive in the Mediterranean.

Attractions Villefranche-sur-Mer

If you want to make an unforgettable walk around the city, devoting it to getting acquainted with local attractions, then you should devote a lot of time to this event. Despite the tiny size of Villefranche-sur-Mer, there is so much to see and do here! Fans of monuments of ancient architecture should first of all head to St. Elmo's Citadel. It was built in 1554-1570 to protect the city from sea attacks.

Today it houses the city hall, a cultural center, a theater and a four-part museum. The collection of sculptures includes bronze and clay statues that you can not only photograph but also touch. The art gallery is represented by the works of such great masters as Picasso, Picabia, Miro, as well as famous Russian artists: Repin, Polenov, Levitan and others.

In addition, the collection of ceramic figurines in the museum is extremely attractive, which tells about the life of the Middle Ages, depicting whole scenes from the life of the townspeople of that time. A separate exposition is devoted to military topics and includes items of soldiers' uniforms, insignia, photographs and engravings from the history of the 24th Alpine Rifles Battalion.

temples

The next important point of your romantic walk, dedicated to ancient monuments, will be another important attraction of Villefranche-sur-Mer - the small church of St. Peter. This medieval chapel was built in the Romanesque style inXVIcentury. In 1957, its walls were painted by the same Jean Cocteau, who, in addition to his literary talent, also had a wonderful artistic taste - he devoted most of his unusual sketches to scenes from the life of the Holy Apostle. Probably, for some reason, the chapel made a very strong impression on the great master: in one of his works, Jacques Cocteau said that she“winks conspiratorially with his candelabra, which seems to have come out of the apocalypse.”

Turning to other monuments of the city of a religious nature, you will not pass by the Church of St. Michael, built in 1757. The building has Italian baroque features and attracts attention from afar. The temple houses the oldest organ in the region dating back to 1790. In addition to the ancient musical instrument, the church is interesting for the rich altar and many pieces of art contained inside. Also here you can see a fig tree sculpture depicting the reclining Christ, which was made by an unknown convict.

Dark Street and Royal Port

Surely you, with bated breath, will freeze with intrigue in front of the first city gate “Portal de Robert”, which has been preserved on Dark Street, beloved by all tourists -rue obscure, - its beginning goes back toXIVcentury. Then this street, which is only 130 meters long, was intended for the movement of troops.

Its name is not accidental: it is a dimly lit tunnel carved into the rock. During enemy attacks, local residents took refuge here, during the Second World War the street was used as a bomb shelter, and now cheese and other products are often sold here, because it is always dark and cool in the tunnel. Due to its amazing medieval atmosphere, the street is full of mystery and poetry.

Another attraction is the Royal Port of Dars, which got its name in 1713, when the Dukes of Savoy, who fortified this harbor from the middle of the 16th century, took the title of kings of Sardinia. Since 1730, the port has been built up with military and economic structures, many of which have survived to this day. Today it is a picturesque place where it is pleasant to wander, admiring the seascapes and unusual buildings.

Villefranche-sur-Mer keeps charm in every corner and makes you fall in love with it at first sight. Delightful panoramas, wonderful climate, magnificent sea, amazing nature, interesting museums and monuments - its advantages can be listed endlessly. It is also unique in that it is a real Italian region in the heart of France, which keeps the memory of those times when Villefranche-sur-Mer belonged to the Holy Roman Empire. This makes its atmosphere unique, you want to come back here again and again!

Villefranche: why are you here?

For comfort. Villefranche is a place of incredible beauty and comfort. Almost immediately, thoughts arise that one should live here - and this does not happen in all places, even if they are beautiful and interesting. Everything is cozy here. Yards in which fishing nets dry. Crossroads that you wander into by chance, and it is even surprising that with a lot of tourists, there is no one on them. However, visitors are mostly on the beach - about it below. Almost home feeling from the slopes to the embankment with small shops. Even the citadel, with small sculptures and lawns, seems like some kind of nice park in the courtyard, a little larger than average.

Come and live.

To the picnic. A picnic, by its very nature, is a way to spend a day off. With a certain accepted set: volleyball, a pond, children, lunch, an hour or two (maybe) for "something to see." What's more, the beautiful surroundings are a must. But besides the set and attributes, there is something else important - the atmosphere. The place should have a special atmosphere so that you would like to spend your weekend there. And this is about Villefranche. Play on the beach and swim, go to dinner on the promenade. Return to the beach or wander around a little in the shady places of the village. Reach the citadel, and have an afternoon snack on the grass with magnificent views. In the evening - the port with a mandatory call to the lighthouse and a leisurely examination of everything moored. And all this - on one and a half kilometers of the coastline, without crowds of tourists on a good half of these one and a half.

Have a great weekends.

Villefranche: faces and meanings

Suburban village. Villefranche does not give the impression of a strongly resort place. It is quite small, and here everyone knows each other: it's like in a village. But what is the difference between a holiday village and a village? They work in the village. Just don't get me wrong - I didn't mean to call the locals bums at all. I - about the face of the place. About the atmosphere. A holiday village is when everyone is their own, and they have a good summer (and other seasons as well). Friendship kids swim nearby (not on the beach) all day long. From time to time guests come to someone, but almost immediately they are "their own" (not so in the village). And everything that is in the village - boats, work, houses and shops, and so on - is designed for both leisure and life. When everything is a little, but enough.

The resort is temporary, does not live outside the season. The holiday village is permanent.

Fishing village. Almost everyone fishes here. There are nets in many yards, many families have boats and small boats. Although fishing here has never been on an industrial scale, it has always been taken seriously. So in our villages, somewhere on the Volga, the head of the family returns at 11 o'clock from fishing with an honestly earned status as a breadwinner. To see this fishing village, you have to get up very early and go to the port and the end of the embankment. Then you will have the opportunity to add absolutely wonderful impressions to your day from unloading boats, dialogues of their owners, buying fish from local restaurants (if there is something to buy). The pleasure is to watch the busy mooring not 1-2 per hour, as during the day, but dozens of boats and boats. And it's simple - when and where else in such a homely atmosphere will you see that the port is alive?

Underground city. La Rue Obscure . This street, 130 meters long, stretches along the walls of the citadel. The name should be taken literally: it is a tunnel carved into the rock. During storms and enemy attacks, local residents took refuge here, during the Second World War the street was used as a bomb shelter. Now there are residential buildings with windows overlooking the eternal darkness (well, with artificial lighting, of course). Merchants of wines and cheeses have chosen their places here (due to temperature and humidity). There are even art workshops: they are also creative.
The impression is ambiguous - from the unusualness and the inability to try on yourself, as you do in interesting and new places. There are always very few people, and local residents are not visible at all - and this effect is enhanced.

One of the indispensable effects is the exit after it to the embankment.